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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the family totally astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary achievement.